My meat CSA is a common theme on this blog, and logically so, I suppose. With the CSA sending me 10 pounds of meat a month, I only venture outside of the ready supply in my freezer for special occasions. Most of the time, I’m grilling up some CSA meat.
With all the ink I’ve spilled on my CSA, however, I haven’t spent much time talking about the ground meat. That changes now. Because the ground meat in my CSA is some of the best I’ve ever tasted. The beef is a 75/25 blend. Pretty rich stuff! It is awesome for burgers.
In my quest to explore the outer reaches of barbeque, the burger could be easily forgotten. This should not happen. Burgers are a staple of American outdoor cooking. When prepared well, they are delicious. This weekend I skipped the goat and grilled some burgers.
Even with burgers, though, I must explore. I often go with a mushroom, onion and swiss burger. I grill the mushrooms and onions in my redware before I grill the burgers, and place them on the burgers, topped with cheese, for the last minute or two of the cook. This weekend, for my first burger cook, I experimented with cheddar and jalapeño.
I prepare my beef with Worcestershire sauce, salt, pepper, garlic salt, and a little cayenne. After I form the patties, I always make a little divot in the middle. This keeps the burgers from fattening up into a ball as they cook. Although I am an avid flipper of steaks, I usually don’t flip my burgers that often. I’ve read in quite a few different places that over-flipping burgers causes them to lose juice, and I tend to agree.
Prior to putting these burgers on the grill I roasted one jalapeño over direct heat until the skin charred on all sides. I allowed the jalapeño to cool a bit, then I skinned it, seeded it, and diced it.
Then I threw the burgers on the grill. I usually go about four minutes on the first side before flipping. I then grill them for another 3 minutes or so, or until the burgers are almost done, before removing them from the heat. I learned this trick with my mushroom and swiss burgers. If you try to dress a grill full of burgers while they are over the flame, your burgers and your hands will end up overcooked. For this cook I plated my burgers, covered them with jalapeños and cheddar cheese, and then put them back on the grill to cook until the cheese melted. Sorry, no picture of the finished product, but they were good!
For my second burger cook of the weekend, I made lamb burgers. I found this recipe on my All Recipes app. As you can see if you follow the link (I’m not going to rehash the entire recipe here), the recipe calls for quite a bit of green stuff – oregano, mint, and cilantro. It would be an expensive recipe if you bought a $4.99 bunch of each at Whole Foods. We happen to have oregano and mint in our garden (the cilantro is coming along) and affordable organic cilantro at the corner bodega, so it wasn’t too bad. I was excited to use a pound of CSA ground lamb.
These lamb burgers were also delicious! I was surprised that the mint, oregano and cilantro were not overpowering. The ground cumin was quite forceful (which I liked), and the red pepper flakes added some subtle heat. We will definitely use this recipe again.
You can see that one burger is smaller than the rest. It was for the little guy. As I reflected on this weekend of burger grilling, I decided that burgers need to be a big part of the rotation as we raise our family. Mrs. Esquire likes them (if they are made with delicious CSA meat), they are relatively affordable, and I can experiment with tastes like jalapeño cheddar and spicy lamb burgers. These recipes are both keepers!
A guest post by Mrs. Esquire
The Big Green Egg influences our meals even when we don’t fire it up
It’s a busy weeknight. While we love grilling on our Big Green Egg for any meal, there are nights when we’re pressed for time, and throwing something together on the range is all we have the capacity to do. But even on these occasions, there are ways that our Big Green Egg can continue to influence and flavor our meals.
After BBQ Esquire made delicious rack of goat on Easter Sunday, we took the remaining bones and made a broth. Tonight I whipped up a simple pasta dish, and boiled the noodles in the goat broth instead of water. The method added a delicious complexity to very basic pasta. The goat broth added a richness, and a very mild smoky Big Green Egg flavor. This smokiness rendered itself in a flavor profile that piqued the sweet-sensing side of my palate.
So even though our Big Green Egg was not touched tonight, the flavor derived from our BGE cooking had a big influence on this evening’s meal.
Making broth from Big Green Egg proteins
Just about any meat with a bone made on the Big Green Egg will yield a lovely broth with a delicious smokey quality. I’ve run into a few situations where a dish made with a heavy Memphis-style rub will result in an overwhelmingly flavored broth, but aside from those rare occasions, I have had great success with Big Green Egg broths.
Select a pot for your range that fits the the bone from whatever you’ve made, so you can fill the pot with water just covering the bones, leaving at least 2-3 inches of space in the top of the pot. I use a 3.5 quart saucepan with built in spouts for most broths, and it has the added benefit of having a built-in strainer for the broth. But before you add the water, check your kitchen for any vegetables or veggie greens you can toss in. I try to add the tops of carrots whenever I have them on hand. Occasionally if we have greens on hand that are on their last legs, I will toss them in to add flavor, and give a use to a food that would have otherwise been wasted. Fill the pot with water so the bones are just covered.
My method is not an exact science, but I like to bring the broth to a full rolling boil right away, and then when the broth hits a boil, drop the temperature of the range to the lowest simmer. I let it go for about an hour depending on how much content is in the broth – and how much time I have before I want to clean up and close the kitchen for the night.
After I strain the broth, I often freeze it for convenience. I like to have both dark (beef, goat) and light (chicken) broths on hand in my freezer so I can choose the style that works best for my dish when I start cooking.
In case you wanted to try the dish I made, I used a very simple list of ingredients:
• goat broth
• olive oil
• sour cream
Follow recommended method for cooking your pasta per the package instructions, substituting goat broth for water.
Stir fry carrots in olive oil in a large fry pan. After carrots have begun to brown, add chard. After chard has started to wilt, add tomatoes. Strain pasta and add to to the fry pan. Drizzle some additional olive oil, and stir contents. Add a few scoops of sour cream if you’d like to give the dish a vodka sauce style. Of course this would be even more delicious with a full-fledged vodka sauce, but I am trying to prepare a few dishes a week with minimal ingredients as a healthy challenge. Enjoy!
When looking back over my blog this weekend, I realized I started writing this post last year but never finished! Such is life with a little guy running around!
Last fall we had a whole bunch of pumpkin on our hands. We grew two in our garden, we bought one at a pumpkin patch, and we received one in our CSA. That is a ton of pumpkin! Mrs. Esquire and I shared the pumpkin cooking duties; she worked inside and I worked on the Big Green Egg.
After we gutted one of the pumpkins, we separated the seeds and I grilled them with olive oil in my Mexican redware. Quite delicious!
The seeds were merely a warm-up. For the main event, Mrs. Esquire asked me to grill the Big Max pumpkin we grew in our garden. The idea behind grilling the pumpkin was just to soften it up so we could peel it and then cook it more if necessary, to make soup or pie. So I went ahead and tossed the pumpkin on the Big Green Egg.
You might be thinking to yourself – there’s no way that worked! Well, you are kind of right. The lid didn’t close all the way. I decided to grill it for a while anyway. Eventually, the pumpkin softened up a little bit, squished into itself, and the lid fell shut. I thought all was good.
I was wrong.
I pulled the pumpkin awhile later. It grilled up just fine and we peeled away the skin. The next time I fired up my BGE, however, I was greeted with a little surprise – the probe on my BGE thermometer had broken off just inside the grill. I guess it was pressed against the side of the pumpkin as the lid was sitting slightly open, and the weight of the lid just snapped it off. What a bummer!
I was out $30 for a new thermometer but I learned a valuable lesson. Going forward, I will always pay attention to the thermometer probe when I grill something as big as this pumpkin.
I have a love-hate relationship with my meat CSA. I hate the lack of variety in some of the shipments. I have about 6 pounds of sirloin and flank steak in my freezer right now. My CSA divides cuts into three categories – ground, roast, and steak – with “steak” cuts being the high-end cuts from each species. Sirloin and flank are considered “steak” cuts, but they are a far cry from a bone-in Rib Eye or dry aged New York Strip. I have a hard time using the lower end steak cuts and am always a little disappointed when they show up in my box.
Despite this frustration, I love that my CSA forces me to try new things. Case in point: the two racks of goat I grilled up for Easter dinner.
The pre-CSA BBQ Esquire would never buy rack-of-anything, much less rack of goat. The rack is an incredibly expensive, and frankly, incredibly inefficient cut of meat. You pay $20-$30 per pound, and you’re getting mostly bone! I know I would never walk up to a meat counter and chose this cut. But when I opened my meat box and saw two goat racks, I got a little giddy. I decided they would be perfect for Easter dinner.
My racks did not come frenched (i.e., with the meat and fat trimmed from the bones on the skinny side of the rack). I planned to french them myself, but when I saw the tiny little racks, I just couldn’t bring myself to cut any extra meat away. Again, I guess this was my cheap nature coming through.
I marinated the racks in a simple marinade of olive oil, garlic, thyme, and rosemary. I’ve learned that a marinade usually has an acidic element, such as citrus, to break down the meat fibers and tenderize the meat. I was a little worried that this recipe had only fat, no acid. After a little hemming and hawing I decided to go with it anyway, since my CSA goat is usually plenty tender.
I set up my Big Green Egg for direct grilling, at about 450 degrees. After removing the racks from the marinade I seasoned them with salt, pepper, garlic salt, and a little cayenne. I started with the rack meat side down for a 5 minute sear. I then flipped them and cooked them for about 10 minutes longer.
After about 15 minutes on the grill (total), I started checking temperature with my thermapen. I ended up pulling them after about 20 minutes total, when they were at about 140 degrees.
I ended up with a nice little sear on the top rack. The meat also pulled away from the bone nicely.
The goat was delicious! The marinade retreated to the background and didn’t add much to the flavor profile, but the goat itself was so mildly delicious anything else might have been overpowering. The three chops pictured above were taken from the leaner rack, which didn’t have much of a fat cap. Honestly, the cap on the other rack made those chops a little cumbersome to eat. Next time I attempt rack of lamb or goat, I will go ahead and french the rack. I’ll just have to figure out some way to use the fat and meat I remove.
It was a beautiful Easter, and Mrs. Esquire and I ate like Kings and Queens with our two racks of goat. I guess that really is the point of the CSA experience. You won’t always get a box full of goat racks and bone-in Rib Eyes. Sometimes, life gives you a flank steak. But if you never eat flank steak and only eat rack of goat, the rack of goat will become ordinary. I’ll try to remember this as I’m eating my way through the rest of the meat in my freezer.
A guest post by Mrs. Esquire
The perfect accompaniment to pulled pork
My husband, BBQ Esquire, has perfected his Big Green Egg pulled pork and Carolina sauce since he first started “egging.” He presides over the grill, and I take control when it comes to baking. So as he honed in on just the right method for his pork, I had to develop the perfect bun to go along with it. We often serve his pulled pork without a bun, or with a simple slice of one of my hearth breads. However, hearth bread is a little overpowering for pulled pork, and I knew a bun or biscuit type product would yield a better result.
While this blog is all about the Big Green Egg, I make these buns in our oven inside to accompany the meat cooked on the BGE. I am certain you could experiment making these on your Egg by trading the baking sheet for a pizza stone, dropping the temperature a few degrees, and extending the bake time a little. We haven’t tried this yet. It would be an ideal situation for a family with more than one Big Green Egg in the backyard!
It starts with a scone
The basic concept for my buns to accompany BBQ Esquire’s pulled pork comes from a family recipe passed down from my grandmother and great aunts. My dad’s family lived as subjects of the British crown, and afternoon and evening tea parties were a part of their family tradition. Families would call on each other, often unplanned. The host would quickly whip up a batch of scones. Starting with this scone recipe means this bun cooks up quickly and easily, with simple ingredients you often have on hand.
But I love to experiment and try new things, so I made some adaptions from my family recipe, creating more of a biscuit and less of a scone. Of course I cut the raisins, I backed out the sugar, and I added a dash of salt. And by substituting all the butter in the recipe with duck fat, this suddenly became the perfect flavor compliment to the Carolina style pulled pork.
The perfect bun for your Big Green Egg pulled pork
2 1/2 cups flour, plus one additional handful to roll out dough
5 teaspoons baking powder
1 dash of sea salt
1/2 cup duck fat (see next section on sourcing)
1 cup milk
Mix all dry ingredients. Add in milk, fat, and egg and quickly stir by hand until you have worked out most of the lumps. Do not over-stir or your buns will not rise. Roll the dough out and pat it flat to a 1/2 inch or so thick. Sprinkle a handful of flour over the top to make handling easier. Cut out circular buns with a small biscuit cutter or juice glass. Arrange on a stoneware baking pan with edges touching. I no longer have to grease my stoneware pan because it is well seasoned, but consider coating your baking surface with oil, butter, or duck fat if needed. Bake at 400° F for 15 minutes.
Separate the individual buns, and slice them in half horizontally. Fill them up with pulled pork and enjoy.
Did you say duck fat? I thought this was supposed to be simple.
If you do not have access to duck fat, substituting butter will work, though you will sacrifice flavor. You can find duck fat in some specialty grocery stores. I skimmed my own duck fat, and it is not as complicated as it sounds. We occasionally cook whole duck in our slow cooker. After you serve the duck you are left with a lot of juice in the bottom of the cooker. Strain it, and let it cool. The fat will rise to the top. I skim it off and save it in mason jars until I need it for a recipe like this.
We’d love to hear what you think about this. Did you try it with any substitutions? Has anyone tried this in the Big Green Egg? Tell us your experience if you try these out.
A guest post by Mrs. Esquire
My love affair with lacinato kale
I eat a lot of kale. It is one of my favorite foods, especially lacinato kale, which is also known as dinosaur kale. I whip up a stir-fry of kale on my range several times a week, but once in a while when we are making something for dinner on the Big Green Egg, we experiment with a kale side dish.
Grilling with kale
It seems like many folks who grill kale make “chips.” While I love kale chips, my frustration is that a giant bunch of hearty kale turns into a few flakes of kale crisps. I want to keep some of the moisture in the kale to make my dish substantial. For the same reason, I also like to keep the center rib of the kale intact whenever possible.
We have a wonderful piece of red ware that we use like a dutch oven on the BGE. Here, we filled it with a diced fennel bulb, lacinato kale, and olive oil.
BBQ Esquire cooked this creation on the BGE first with the lid of the dutch oven off, to get a stir-fry going. Then he put the lid on to maintain more moisture as it finished cooking.
The fennel is a great flavor combination with the kale, and the Egg adds a delicious smokiness. Sprinkle a little philippine sea salt on the kale before serving to round out the flavor profile of the dish.
My Big Green Egg has provided the motivation and opportunity to tackle some pretty big barbeque challenges. Some of my favorites include pulled pork, brisket, and smoked salmon. This holiday season, however, a new favorite rose to the top of the list.
Turducken was definitely a “bucket list” barbeque challenge. My life as a Big Green Egger would feel incomplete if I never made a turducken. I had so much fun learning about turducken, making the turducken, and then, of course, eating the turducken!
The turducken is the ultimate in barbecued poultry. It’s a turkey stuffed with a chicken and a duck. You can purchase an assembled turducken – especially if you live in Louisiana or other parts of the South – but in my mind the assembly is part of the experience.
That said, there are limits to what I can and will do. The first step in building a turducken is to debone a whole chicken and a whole duck. If you are truly ambitious you can do this yourself and can find instructions on how to do so on YouTube. I chose to delegate this task to my butcher. You will also need to remove all the bones from the turkey, except for the leg and wing bones. I also had my butcher do this for me.
In addition to your deboned birds, you will need stuffing. Mrs. Esquire put together the stuffing for me. It was made from chicken sausage and various types of breads. One tip I read online – make sure your stuffing is moist. Dry stuffing will impede the transfer of heat between the birds.
Lastly, you’ll need a rub. I used Emeril’s Essence. Once you have your birds, stuffing and rub, you are ready to assemble.
I have to pause here for a quick confession. Despite the fact that I ordered my meat a month in advance, the butcher didn’t have a whole duck. Frustrating! So instead I used duck breasts.
The first step in assembly is to rub down the chicken and duck, and to put some rub on the inside of the turkey. Next, you put a layer of stuffing in the turkey. You can see that the skin on top of the turkey is intact. I was considering cutting the turkey all the way open, but I’m glad I didn’t. That skin was very helpful in keeping the bird together while I stuffed it.
I wanted my duck in the middle. Since my bird is laying breast down, I put the duck in next. After the duck is another layer of stuffing, then it’s time for the chicken. Lastly, you should fill all the crevices with stuffing.
Here’s the bird, fully stuffed.
The next step is to perform a little reconstructive surgery on the turducken. Mrs. Esquire helped me with this step – she’s very handy with a sewing needle. We used cotton string to sew the bird back up and truss the legs.
Lastly, I mixed some Emeril’s Essence with margarine (we had kosher guests). I rubbed the margarine between the skin and the breast, and also over the top of the bird. I allowed the bird to come to room temperature prior to the cook, but also iced down the turkey breasts with bags of ice as it was sitting out. I picked up this tip online – the hope is to keep the breasts a little cooler than the rest of the bird so they won’t cook too fast.
It was quite a bit of prep work, but I truly believe it was worth it. Cooking a turducken is a little complicated, and it helped to know the many layers of my bird as I was monitoring the cooking process.
There’s a wide variety of turducken cooking times and temperatures floating around the internet. I decided on 300 degrees, Big Green Egg set for indirect cooking, with a little cherry wood for smoke. I was guessing I’d have a 5-7 hour cook. A good drip pan is also essential. I used a double-drip pan method (with one drip pan on to the grill and two more below the grill, on the plate setter) in hopes of getting some early drippings for gravy.
It’s go time!
In preparation for this cook I bought myself a thermapen instant-read thermometer. I now have quite the collection of thermometers. Some serve different purposes and some I just don’t like. The thermapen is a top of the line instant-read thermometer. I wanted it for this cook because I needed to quickly check the temperature at various parts of the bird without leaving the lid open too long.
The thermapen worked great, but it told me that my bird was cooking much more quickly than I wanted! The turkey breasts were climbing faster than the interior of the bird (as expected) and were inching close to 160 after three hours. The interior still had a ways to go.
At this point I knew I would have to pull the bird at least two hours before we were ready to eat it. I decided to use the old barbecue trick of putting it in a cooler, wrapped in foil and blankets, to rest. Not ideal but I hoped it would work. After about four hours, the interior was up over 150. Counting on significant temperature rise during the two hours in the cooler, I pulled the bird at that point.
Ready for the cooler! (Oh, by the way, did I mention that I was doing this all in a massive rain storm? Not ideal!)
When I opened the cooler two hours later, a huge gush of steam rushed out. In retrospect, I should have pulled the bird from the cooler about 15-30 minutes before carving it. I didn’t re-check the temperature (too busy!) but I’m sure the breasts were much warmer than I would have liked.
Carving a turucken is tons of fun. Since there are hardly any bones, you can just go at it like a meatloaf. When I sliced into my turducken, I was greeted with this beautiful sight.
The turducken was a huge hit. Even though my temperature got a little higher than I wanted, and even though I had to pull the bird early, it still was moist enough. I would have liked to try it after a more normal resting period. The turkey was, predictably, drier than the other meats. But when you swished the turducken all together on your plate it was pretty darn good. I’ll definitely make turducken again!
As always, thanks for reading!